Soldering Gun of 20 watts or less
Small Philips Scewdrivers
Needle Nose Pliers
Epoxy or super glue
1. Remove the 6 screws securing the back of the Tone Dialer to the front.
Four of the screws are underneath the battery cover.
2. Gently pry off the back being careful not to break the four wires that
connect the speaker to the circuit board. Lay the back cover to the side
of the dialer. You should now be looking onto the back of the dialer's
3. Locate the original crystal (silver cylinder) on left side of the circuit
board. Carefully cut the crystal off the circuit board as close to board as
possible. Use needle nose pliers to pull the crystal loose as it is held in
place with rubber cement. Be careful not to crush the crystal!
4. Measure out 2 pieces of wire that are long enough to go from the
original crystal solder points, around the edge of the dialer, to a point
on the lower right side of the circuit board. Solder one end of the wire
to the lower original crystal solder point and the other end to a lead on
the original crystal (keep the leads on the crystals as short as possible).
Solder the other wire to the other lead on the crystal but _not_ to the
circuit board. Leave it hanging for now. Use tape to insulate the crystal's
5. Route the wires around the edge of the circuit board on the _underside_ of
the circuit board. You may have to remove the circuit board to route this
sucessfully. The circuit board is held in place by 6 philips screws down the
middle of the board. Glue or tape the crystal into place on the lower right
side of the circuit board on the underneath side (the keypad side). This
will leave us more room on the circuit board for the swithches.
6. Locate four green capacitors on left edge of the circuit board. Cut off
the second one from the bottom as close to the circuit board as possible.
Important! Make note of which lead on the capacitor went to which solder
point. Unlike crystals, capacitors are directional and if you reverse the
current, it will fry.
7. Glue or tape the capacitor to the empty spot on the upper right side of
the circuit board next to the LED.
8. Solder wires from the leads on the capacitor to the original solder points
of the capacitor. Run the wires along the edge of the circuit board and
insulate the capcitor's leads with tape. You have now moved the capacitor and
made room for the first switch.
9. Glue or tape the first switch on the left side of the circuit board
where the capacitor used to be. Carefully push the upper two green
capacitors to the right to help make room for the first switch. Orientate
the switch's leads down.
10. Solder the free end of the wire that runs to the original crystal
to one of the leads on the mercury switch. Solder a wire from the other lead
of the mercury switch to the upper solder point of the original crystal. The
circuit should now go from the upper solder point through the switch to
the original crystal and back to the lower solder point.
11. Test your work by putting the batteries in the dialer holding the slide
switch which turns on the dialer in the on posistion. The LED should come
on. If it doesn't, check your work. Make sure that the circuit is complete
and the leads aren't grounding on anything. Hold the dialer in an upright
position while holding the switch on and press some buttons. You should
hear touchtones. If not, make sure you haven't broken any of the wires to
12. Locate the yellow capacitor on the lower right side of the circuit board.
Gently pry the capacitor loose with needle nose pliers and flip the capacitor
over. Insulate the leads of the capacitor with tape so that it doesn't come
in contact with the resistors which it is now partially laying on. This will
leave a nice open spot on the circuit board for the rest of our mods.
13. Look at the back cover of the dialer. You will notice that on the lower
left side of the back cover is some space about the size of a crystal. How
convenient! Remove the small screen on the lower left side that covers a
small opening in the cover.
14. Glue the new crystal into the spot where the screen was with the leads
facing out. The crystal will stick out the hole a little bit, but that won't
15. Glue or tape the mercury switch in the space to the right of it with
the leads oriented up.
16. Solder wire from the new crystal to one of the leads of the mercury
switch. Solder a wire from the other lead of the new crystal to the lower
solder point of the original crystal. Make the wire to the solder point
as short as possible with the case open. Insulate the leads with tape.
17. Solder a wire from the remaining lead on the second mercury switch to
the upper solder point of the original crystal.
18. Test your dialer once more. This time hold the switch in the on position
while the dialer is upside down and press the keys. You should here the
touch-tones in a much higher key now.
19. If everything has tested out, then close up the box. This is probably
the most difficult step of all. You must have the mercury switches located
just right, or it won't close. Also you must place the wires which run from
the back cover away from the the components in order to optimize space.
Carefully close the box, but be warned, it takes quite a bit of pressure to
get the box closed. You may want to have a friend help you hold it closed
while you screw the screws back in. You may break a switch or two before
you get it right. Be very careful with any spilled mercury since as Karb0n
once told me, "Dude! That shit will make you go insane!" You must get the
case closed all the way, or the on switch will not make contact. This step
can be very frustrating, but once you get it closed _and_ working, don't
ever open it again!
(C)opywrong 1994, DeadKat Inc. All wrongs denied.